DISTANT PLACES
Travel tips by Bremen sehenswert far from the Hanseatic City of Bremen
Boltenhagen Seaside Resort
A charming "village-style" town with a long beach
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At a beach access point
Located between Lübeck and Wismar, near Grevesmühlen, lies the seaside resort of Boltenhagen. Even during the GDR era, the area was a popular destination due to its long sandy beach and was known as the "Resort for the Working People." After the construction of the Berlin Wall in 1961, as the GDR became increasingly isolated from the West, the stretch of coastline where Boltenhagen sits was declared a border zone and monitored militarily. Nevertheless, many East German citizens repeatedly attempted to flee across the Baltic Sea - at least 174 of them made their way to freedom at the cost of their lives between the construction of the Wall and the collapse of the regime in September 1989.
Chains and locks on the pier
To ensure that no one loses their life in the waves today, many pairs of watchful eyes - mostly belonging to young volunteers from the DLRG (German Life Saving Association) - keep a steady watch over the activities in the salty depths and along the beach at several stations.
Fish restaurant behind the dune promenade
Even though tidal changes are noticeable, dangerous currents are largely absent during calm seas. The sandy seabed slopes gently across a wide coastal area of the entire bay, providing ideal swimming conditions, particularly for families with children.
View of the beach
Those seeking completely wild and secluded stretches of beach will likely not find them in Boltenhagen. Instead, there are plenty of amenities such as restrooms and stalls selling ice cream, drinks, snacks, and more, located behind or even on the flood protection dune. Many of the numerous red wooden huts at the beach access points along the dune promenade offer more than just beach chair rentals; they also sell small items such as hot and cold drinks, souvenirs, and even used books.
That’s one way to put it
Speaking of the dune promenade: It was constructed between 2019 and 2021 with significant financial support from the state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and the EU for 6.1 million euros. It is a highly successful project, from its initial concept to its practical implementation. The wide, wood-covered footway on stilts runs parallel to the beach at the transition from dune vegetation (with its grasses) to coastal vegetation featuring many deciduous trees. From this slightly elevated position, one enjoys an unobstructed view of the beach and the open Baltic Sea. The planners also thoughtfully included many benches, which are frequently used in good weather.
On the dune promenade with one of the many DLRG stations (left) and a beach chair rental (right)
While cyclists are not permitted on the promenade itself, there is a wide, unpaved, yet easily navigable road at the foot of the dune promenade on the land side. This path also extends along nearly the entire bay. Due to the old trees, this area is naturally somewhat shaded, which can be quite pleasant for cycling - especially when the summer sun beats down from a cloudless sky. Furthermore, numerous tempting culinary offerings in both liquid and solid form invite travelers to stop and take a short break.
Café behind the dune promenade
Whether on the beach, on the dune promenade, or on the aforementioned path on the land side, anyone traveling more than a few hundred meters will inevitably pass the pier. The 290-meter long structure has extended into the Baltic Sea since December 1992 after more than a year of construction and, like almost every pier on the German Baltic coast, is a popular spot for visitors.
On the head of the pier
One can linger here with a view of the coast from a greater distance or look out over the vast Baltic Sea at the large ferries on the horizon traveling between Travemünde and Scandinavia. The port city belonging to Lübeck is located just under 23 kilometers away in a straight line and is, as a side note, an excellent destination for an excursion.
Copper to copper: It is apparently a popular pastime to toss copper coins so that they land on the copper covering of this mooring bollard at the pier. The number of coins varies.
On the land side, the extension of the pier leads into the town center of Boltenhagen, starting first in the "Kurpark" (spa park) with pavilions, a spa stage with a fountain, a medicinal drinking hall, and the characteristic "Kurhaus" located just a short distance away on the main street. The Kurhaus was built in the year 2000; however, it is no longer a traditional spa house but now serves as the Tourist Information center. In light of its 200th anniversary, the park and its buildings were redesigned into their current form with colorful flower beds.
Kurhaus
The park is likely only a place of peace during the winter months, as a pedestrian-friendly promenade passes directly beside it, featuring shops, boutiques, fast food, cafés, restaurants, holiday accommodations, and a creatively designed mini-golf course. Accordingly, many people - presumably mostly guests - frequent these paths.
The Low German poet Fritz Reuter spent time in Boltenhagen several times between the years 1850 and 1858.
In contrast, a place of peace is the small Protestant church at "Paulshöhe" (Paul's Height). The name should be taken literally, as this protected brick church has stood since 1873 on the edge of a dune and sits slightly higher than the surrounding buildings. From that era, the altar painting depicting the crucifixion scene has been preserved in the rather simply furnished church.
In the church at Paulshöhe
From today's perspective, the history of the church and the former farming village of Boltenhagen could have taken a different turn; unfavorable, strong wind conditions caused high water levels on the night of November 12-13, 1872, resulting in the most severe known Baltic Sea storm surge, with waves reaching up to five and a half meters.
Memory of a natural event
At that time, only 271 people and 10,000 livestock died on the German coast. Thousands of houses were destroyed, leaving people homeless in freezing temperatures amidst falling snow and hail. Boltenhagen was not spared by this disaster; however, by some miracle, no one lost their life here. This event is also linked to the work of Pastor Johann Joachim Hartwig Meyer from Wismar, who organized relief during the crisis. A memorial stone from 1880 stands next to the church in memory of his efforts - not only during those desperate hours but also as a promoter of Boltenhagen. In 1830, he spent his first vacation here on the coast, recognized the area's potential, and began accelerating the development of the town for tourism. Fifty years later, the residents of Boltenhagen thanked him with this stone and its inscription.
And tourism continues to bring money into the town, which is invested wisely. Many regularly emptied waste collection containers ensure that trash ends up where it belongs. But that is just one example.
A bench in memory of Renate Tinz, who spent many years vacationing in Boltenhagen. The work was created by Sven Eggers from Mallentin, who prefers working with a chainsaw.
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