DISTANT PLACES
Travel tips by Bremen sehenswert far from the Hanseatic City of Bremen
Zakynthos
An island defined by the Caretta caretta
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Cactus flowers
"Zakynthos?" Hmm, it sounds somewhat ... Greek. This observation requires a bit more explanation, as made clear by the questioning look on my companion's face. Yes, exactly. Zakynthos is the third-largest of the Ionian Islands in the sea of the same name and belongs to Greece. Even though more than a million tourists visit the island - known as Zante in Italian - every year, it remains unknown to many travelers.
A favorite for wedding couples: a small island at Agios Sostis
When searching for images of the 406 km² island online, one primarily encounters a very common recurring motif that has been captured from a similar angle by various photographers over the years: Navagio Bay on the northwestern coast. It's all junk, right? Well, that is a matter of perspective, and there are plenty of those during the season, whether they have a camera or not. The fact remains, however, that the rusting wreck of the motor vessel "Panagiotis" has become a landmark for Zakynthos.
Wreck of the motor vessel "Panagiotis" in Navagio Bay
This is certainly due, on one hand, to the atmosphere it offers to curious eyes from the small viewing platform - only a few square meters in size - on a cliff edge at a dizzying height. From here, the wreck appears to lie at the end of the bay (formerly known as "Agios Georgios") on a beach of fine sand, while the waves of the turquoise-blue sea roll gently onto the shore under the sun. There is a certain aesthetic in this scene where the visible transience of objects meets the rugged beauty of nature - an aesthetic that is difficult to ignore even from a close distance, even if the sandy beach turns out to be quite pebbly. The sight is so alluring that some tourists test their skills as "two-legged mountain goats" off the beaten path to the very brink of recklessness just to get a better view or a better photo. If you value your life, it is best not to ignore the warnings and instead join the often long queue of people waiting in front of the platform, even if it takes some time. There is plenty of time to watch the daring actions of a few others from a safe distance until the hair on your neck stands on end. Unfortunately, in the past, too many reckless individuals have paid for their desired selfie with their lives when they plunged into the depths beyond rescue. An impact from this height feels like hitting concrete - solid as a board - even on water.
Crowds of visitors in Smuggler's Bay
The fascination with the pile of rusted steel is, on the other hand, fueled by history: the story that gave the already-weathered freighter its "end of purpose" in this secluded bay in 1980. The seas were stormy and the coast guard was closing in when the engine failed. Before abandoning ship, the crew threw their cargo overboard: illegal cigarettes. It is said that none of these ever officially reappeared; instead, they were recovered and hidden by locals. To this day, it is said that "stogies" from those stocks still occasionally go up in smoke. Well, they are just stories, tales that only add to the allure of Smugglers' Bay.
A glimpse into the Blue Caves
The bay itself can only be reached by water. Organized boat and ship tours are offered almost everywhere on Zakynthos, including a swimming stop. Most tour programs also include a visit to the Blue Caves, which conveniently lie on the route of the ships from the port of the capital in the east toward Navagio Bay, just before the northern tip of the island. And these are not the only ones - though they are the largest - lining up along the rocky coast in the northeast of Zakynthos. What makes these caves so worth seeing is not necessarily unique geological features, but primarily the sunlight reflected off the shallow, bright seabed, which causes the crystal-clear water to glow turquoise or blue, setting the caves in scene.
One of the larger excursion ships during a swimming stop in front of the caves on the island of Marathonissi
These caves, just a few kilometers away by water from the neighboring island of Kefalonia, are not the only ones on Zakynthos. Hikers and tourists also regularly visit the caves of Keri and on Marathonissi in the south of the island. If you book a tour with one of the smaller local providers - for example, in Agios Sostis in the bay of Laganas - you often get more for your money. Up to eight guests can fit into the small boats powered by outboard motors, which feels almost intimate. The boats are extremely maneuverable and have shallow drafts, allowing you to venture deep into the caves. Our young boat captain proved himself highly skilled and, while laughing heartily as the hull lightly touched the stony bottom, mentioned that it only took him ten years and a few wrecked boats to acquire his skills. Shortly after, he maneuvered the boat with great finesse onto a pebble beach, moored the craft, and invited us for a swim. A unique and incomparable experience, as he assured us.
Only small boats can be used to see the caves from the inside
Early in the morning, you can hear the hum of boat and ship engines in the bay of Laganas; these are not fishing boats, as there isn't much left to catch here anymore. In addition to vacationers with their rental boats and small excursion boats, several larger tour ships cruise through these waters. Our friendly boat captain has a very clear opinion on this, and it is not a good one. He says the large ships are far too cumbersome, have too much draft with their large propellers, and are dangerously irresponsible. His focus in this regard is the Caretta caretta (sea turtle), and during our "turtle-watching" together, it became clear that he is undoubtedly right.
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