DISTANT PLACES
Travel tips by Bremen sehenswert far from the Hanseatic City of Bremen
Symi
An excursion to the Greek Dodecanese island off the Turkish coast
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On the way down toward the landing area, we come across ruins that hint at what the town might have looked like in the past - unplastered fieldstone walls instead of the brightly painted "captain’s houses" and grand residences found alongside many smaller homes in Symi.
Ruins made of coarse stone
The small shipyard further down by the water has also seen better days. From antiquity to modern times, the island's shipbuilders were renowned for their craftsmanship; along with the trade of self-harvested sponges, this provided the inhabitants with their livelihood and granted them a certain prosperity during the era of peak production. Their sailing ships were considered the fastest in the eastern part of the Aegean in the 19th century, which earned the islanders certain privileges even under Turkish rule. However, with the introduction of steam navigation, the era of sailing ships in commercial transport came to an end. All forms of transport became faster and more independent thanks to coal-fired engines rather than wind power.
Shipyard impression
Passing by restaurants with outdoor seating - some located directly on the water - one passes a 1881 bell tower featuring a clock at the harbor entrance, before immediately entering a denser bustle once more. This area also contains one of the moorings for larger ferries, which bring not only guests but also supplies for the residents and the numerous businesses on the island.
Bell tower of 1881
A few meters further along the promenade, a memorial - often overlooked by most tourists - sits between shops and restaurants. It points to one of the darkest periods in the island's recent history, which is also closely linked to Germany. From 1943 to '45, Symi hosted the German headquarters for the southeastern Aegean, which eventually led to the island being bombed.
Memorial at the harbor promenade
Then time presses on; the ferry is waiting on the other side of the harbor because we have one more appointment on the island. Once the day guests board their excursion ships again, it becomes quiet in Symi. The "haunting" ends as suddenly as it began, and the local residents reclaim the island for themselves - until the next day.
Ferry
The Monastery of Panormitis
There are well over 300 chapels, monasteries, and churches on Symi in total, but the most noteworthy is the Monastery of Panormitis, dating back to the 18th century. The complex is located in a bay directly at the water's edge and has its own landing point for the many tourist day-guests, as a visit to the monastery is included in many of the boat tours.
View of the monastery complex
After traveling a few kilometers along the island’s rugged rocky coast, the ship changes direction and the engines are throttled back. Moving at a slow pace into the shallow bay with a sandy seabed - which makes the water appear beautifully turquoise under the sun - the order comes to stop right in the middle. The steel behemoth turns 180 degrees with heavy momentum; the turbulence from the propellers creates an underwater sandstorm, and the stern approaches the dock with millimetric precision. There is enough time to take in the vast monastery complex in its entirety from the deck.
Portrait of Archangel Michael in the monastery
The monastery dedicated to the Archangel Michael is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the Dodecanese group of Greek islands in the eastern Aegean. Accordingly, an icon of the Archangel stands at the center of the carved and gilded iconostasis. The magnificent ensemble in this small sacred space impresses visitors with its masterfully crafted workmanship, even for those who have little connection to religion or the church. However, out of respect, one should behave appropriately - no photography and covering your limbs (shoulders/knees).
Courtyard in the monastery
The remainder of the walk through this site - which can accommodate up to 500 pilgrims - is quite relaxed. It offers the opportunity to take a longer look at certain features without being pushed forward by the next group of visitors, such as the elaborately decorated bell tower, which stands out against the otherwise rather plain monastery walls. Then, for more practical reasons, one heads straight to the quay in front of the monastery after the visit; because there is simply no time left, a café offers refreshment and something for a quick snack.
This artichoke in the garden of the monastery is not a snack for the visitors
Once everyone is back on board, our visit to the small Greek island of Symi off the Turkish coast ends - though others may choose to stay longer, perhaps prompted by a look at the beach not far from the monastery. While there are no vast, miles-long "top" beaches with fine sand on the island, there are beaches like this one or those in Pedi and Nimborio: something for individualists and those who prefer to be where mass tourism is absent.
Elaborately decorated bell tower at Panormitis Monastery
Information
www.visitgreece.gr/en/greek_islands/dodecanese
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